Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Interview: Zabou

Across the sea, (beyond the sea?) the guys in Japan knew about menswear culture while we bought dragon t-shirts. Supposedly the ‘rediscoverers’ of Americana, they know their stuff as menswear is very much a hobby for them. This isn’t just a passing fad. They take their stuff seriously. You know those magazines like Free & Easy that y’all slobber over? Those remind me of the Model Railroader magazine. It’s lame to everyone else, but do you know how to make Crabbe Town look like a 1910s mining town? Neither do I. Of course, with the rise of the menswear hobby in Japan, so did menswear shops. One of them was Zabou, which isn’t so much of a historical reference as other shops in Japan. Based out of Osaka, they understand the historical context of menswear but understand that their life, which involves being active and adventuresome, simply won’t let them dress like McQueen did in “The Thomas Crowne Affair”. They keep things simple as they sell chinos, BD oxfords, sneakers, boots, and those odd bucket hats that only Asian males can look uncontrived in. You don’t see them stunting any, as some tumblr jackass who doesn’t know his foot from his face would say, T3 level sartorial shit (guys, it’s not rocket science. Stop pretending that it is). In short, Zabou makes things easy for their shoppers. Complication results in contrivance which results in frustration and a shopper that isn’t coming back.

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(take note of Russel Moccasin collection for sale - extensive)

The following interview with Zabou is awkward due to a language barrier. However, these are a group of guys who enjoy what they do and know that dressing yourself isn’t serious business. If putting clothes on in the morning is serious business for you can I suggest a subscription to Model Railroader? Perhaps you will enjoy recreating a personal expression of history in your basement rather than a personal expression of history in public.

If you take anything away from this I would hope it’s their concept of Ame-cazi style. They don’t make it hard for themselves, really.

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Q:
Online blog archives dates you guys to 2006, but when did Zabou officially open?

A:
June, 1997

Q:
Occasionally, you guys will post pictures of the people that influence a specific look.
Who are people that influence the Zabou look as a whole?

A:
This is a very good question. We could say that this is what we Japanese do best, which is to research and understand various "originals" from around the world, and adapt/customize them into our own ways. These "originals" range from the characters from the novels written by Hemingway, Alain Delon, to the hippies we meet at places we visit.

Q:
How has the Zabou style evolved?

A:
Zabou style is the style in which we produce relying only on our own perspectives.Judging by our fashion senses and perspectives, we choose what is cool and fashionable,and try to make it a standard. Our definition of "cool" is influenced not only by the latest trends, but also by the things that are considered universal, and are not influenced by trends. One of the objectives of the ZAbou style is to look "normal" no matter who looks at it, and to be able to adaptto various occasions. The Zabou style is based fundamentally on two main facts: we love people, and we love clothes. The fashion industry is a quickly evolving industry, with new trends and styles made every season. But even if the trends change, we will keep relying on our own perspectives.

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Q:
How much are you guys influenced by American style?

A:
About 50%. As you Americans obviously know, the US has many elements in which we are inspired by. For example, the cultural difference within the country (East coast and West coast), the climate, and race are all very influential for us. The other half is from the culture and history of Europe and other regions.

Q:
Zabou is influenced by sports. What are the sorts that you guys participate in yourselves?

A:
The sports we often enjoy are jogging( I don't know if you call it a sport), biking, trekking, and snowboarding. There are many things in which we are inspired by sports. We believe that the satisfaction we get from being dressed in comfortable and well-balanced clothes is something that everyone seeks for, and we try to persue that ideology in various ways. For instance,
creating things by using newly developed fabric or materials, promoting hybrid styles produced by combining low-tech and hi-tec styles, etc. In addition, (internet) surfing is also essential for creating new styles.

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Q:
If you were to hike across Japan, what are the 5 things that you would bring with you?

A:
First of all, we enjoy hiking as a tool for creating the Zabou style. We try on various clothes and gather various things, and repeat that over and over before finally deciding what we need and don't need to take with us. The five things that we would take with us to hiking, are bottled water, rice-balls( so that we don't starve to death), a cellphone, a camera, and last but not least, friends. Water is obviously for satisfying our thirst, cellphones are for gathering various information, and a camera is needed for taking pictures to post on our blog, and friends are essential for sharing those precious moments.

Q:
What is new for Zabou in the future?

A:
Our motto is "creating real gentlemen", and this is what we have been trying to accomplish ever since we began. Time goes by, but there are things that don't change, and those are the things we find important. Like how liquid changes its form depending on the type of cup it fills, we, too, have to transform ourselves and open our minds to new things, even if we have to leave behind the things we are accustomed to. That is what we do, and will keep doing in the future. To us, things like increasing the number of stores and making inroads into foreign markets, are not what we consider as our goal, but just a process for achieving our goal.

Our superiors have interpreted the casual fashion styles of the US into their own ways, and have created the style now known as "Ame-cazi" (short for American casual). They may have been wrongfully interpreted, or simply a general Japanese interpretation of America, but what is important, is finding our own individual ways under those circumstances.


Q:
Who does the Zabou team consist of?

A:
Zabou consists of 5 unique individuals.
We all love clothes, and how they characterize our individualities greatly. One of our staff members attracts various customers and predicts their tastes with his accurate sensitivity, while another staff member, having sufficient knowledge on behavioral psychology, is an expert on marketing. There are also staff members who dedicate their time researching fashion and layouts, and others who use their technological pc skills to manage our website and online store. As you can see, Zabou consists of individuals with totally different personalities.

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Q:
As it becomes hotter (interview was begun in July; I’m lazy), what are the fabrics that you guys look for to help deal with temperature?

A:
In terms of fabrics that have been around since the old times, we would have to say cotton and linen. We also recommend fabrics like seersuckers and chambray for the summer. On the other hand, in terms of relatively new fabrics developed from the latest technology, cool-max and outlast are suited for hot weather. After all, whatever fabric that makes people both feel
and look nice and cool in the summer is considered appropriate.

Q:
What do you guys consider staples in a Ame-cazi wardrobe? What sorts of things are most useful in your
dress?

A:
Button-down shirts, jeans, khaki pants, and military pants are items that always come in handy for Ame-cazi fashion. We also consider canvas sneakers and suede oxford shoes standard and essential items. In our opinion, outfits have to be comfortable and simple, with basic colors. We try to carry practical items that use natural fabrics, and fabrics that show different expressions
as you wear them. We promote *hybrid and *versatile styles that combine traditional, military, work, outdoor, and sports styles.

Friday, August 26, 2011

Minimalism

To quote great pieces of high school English short-story fiction containing stolen witticisms that will leave public educated and public subsidized teachers gasping for breath, “the irony was palpable”. The minimalist’s room was a mess. Pizza boxes were strewn about and grease caked on the counter. His mother would have been upset with him if she were there. Things would have been better but life happens. And by happens, I mean that life changes and typically for the worse. Previous to his fall, his life had been a grand Clamence and his briefcase had been organized. His girlfriend had left him for some sleazeball and he had tumbled. His game had fallen off the bull of life. He laid on his couch, stomach bursting, and waited for people to stop posting that prep crap on their ‘blogs’. In a few weeks, maybe months, he’d rise and start working out; he’d flex his minimalist muscles and return to his grandeur. Maybe Jil Sander would give him a call. Maybe even a ‘blogger’ would post a picture of a whole-cut, thin-lapeled cheesecake of a WIWT.

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Tote Bags

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With the rise of Italian sportswear we’ve seen a trend die, thank goodness. Remember tote bags? Those things that you carry Fritos and LARP campaign manuals in? Yep, I haven’t seen one float across my dashboard in sometime either. I never was a particular fan of tote bags as they seem effeminate. However, Sam Franklin thinks that they are great. We recently had a debate via email over their merits.

From: stylepro138492039@hotmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 11:25 AM
To: guidetobadtaste@gmail.com

what do you think about a post about tote bags i think that they are great and very useful to carry stuff in and every man should own one as their an essential


From: guidetobadtaste@gmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 5:09 PM
To: stylepro138492039@hotmail.com

I personally think that tote bags suck. I don’t think I’m comfortable letting you post about them if I don’t actually like them.

John Lugg


From: stylepro138492039@hotmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 5:10 PM
To: guidetobadtaste@gmail.com

what you think that all my ideas suck and you never let me post about them i know about these things than you do just let me take care of it there are so many merits to tote bags why wont you see that


From: guidetobadtaste@gmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 8:22 PM
To: stylepro138492039@hotmail.com

What merits? Name them.

John Lugg


From: stylepro138492039@hotmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 8:23 PM
To: guidetobadtaste@gmail.com

you can put all sorts of stuff in them and their rugged and useful and look really cool you can fit really cool stuff like an expresso machine in them and other cool stuff like you could take them to a cool coffee place and be like im really stoic and cool im just going to pull out my old kerowack novel and read it while ppl play mellow music over a bose sound system and the coffee shop babes pour a foam heart in your drink or whatever how they do that


From: guidetobadtaste@gmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 11:59 PM
To: stylepro138492039@hotmail.com

I’ve seen you with your tote bag and there’s never anything in it.

John Lugg


From: stylepro138492039@hotmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 12:00 AM
To: guidetobadtaste@gmail.com

theier is always useful stuff in my bag i caryy lots of useful things in them



From: guidetobadtaste@gmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 8:11 AM
To: stylepro138492039@hotmail.com

Like what? Can’t you just carry a backpack or briefcase?

John Lugg


From: stylepro138492039@hotmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 8:12 AM
To: guidetobadtaste@gmail.com

useful things that dont fit in a backpack or briefcase


From: guidetobadtaste@gmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 5:39 PM
To: stylepro138492039@hotmail.com

Examples please?

John Lugg


From: stylepro138492039@hotmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 5:40 PM
To: guidetobadtaste@gmail.com

i just took a picture of my rabbit in my totebag you can carry all sorts of things in them


From: guidetobadtaste@gmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 7:19 PM
To: stylepro138492039@hotmail.com

I didn’t know you had a rabbit. Is it cute?

John Lugg


From: stylepro138492039@hotmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 7:20 PM
To: guidetobadtaste@gmail.com

yes very cute you should see it you can carry things like rabbits in tote bags


From: guidetobadtaste@gmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 9:02 PM
To: stylepro138492039@hotmail.com

So you can carry rabbits and what else?

John Lugg


From: stylepro138492039@hotmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 9:03 PM
To: guidetobadtaste@gmail.com

mom has a cat


From: guidetobadtaste@gmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 11:03 PM
To: stylepro138492039@hotmail.com

Don’t be dumb. Cats hate riding in tote bags.

John Lugg


From: stylepro138492039@hotmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 11:04 PM
To: guidetobadtaste@gmail.com

my moms cat would love riding on tote bags sometimes my mom puts her on her lap when shes driving and pretends the cat is driving its really funny but then after awhile the cat gets mad and hisses and tries to jump out the window if its down it actually happened once but we stopped the car and found the cat she was hiding in a tree and was mad at mom so i had to get her down


From: guidetobadtaste@gmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 11:34 PM
To: stylepro138492039@hotmail.com

I’m definitely not letting you write about tote bags. They’re just not that useful and look like a purse.

John Lugg


From: stylepro138492039@hotmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 11:35 PM
To: guidetobadtaste@gmail.com

want me to send you that picture of my rabbit in my tote





__________________________


So there you have it. Tote bags are great for carrying rabbits around in.

Monday, August 15, 2011

Trend Watch: Suede Patches

Suede patches seem to be the alteration of choice in recent months. Brand new sweater that hasn’t seen any wear? Suede patches. Sportcoat that fits like shit that you found in a thrift store for $5 dollars too much ‘cause of the wine stains? Suede patches. Have no idea what to add to your FW ’11 collection? Suede patches. Fender bender? Suede patches. Shitty tumblr blog? Suede patches. Knees all blown out from “uh-huh you know what”? Suede patches. Shitty sandwich? Nah, no suede patches, you gotta’ go with mayo. Homeless? Suede patches might work but I’m told that a marketable skill helps much more.

Suede patches, while not always applied out of necessity, give you an authentic look that is all your own; simply because you took your stuff to the tailor and got them put on. That or you shopped at Rugby. When you walk down the street people will whistle and say, "what an original guy! I saw the same look 6 months ago but never thought I'd see it here!" Let us view how they can be best displayed.

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Wow! Fantastic! Subtle contrast between the coat and patch makes sure that people can see them while at the same time aren't too loud.

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This is just as good. The image describes all.

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These aren't suede patches but it's still super authentic and rugged.

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Once again, little to be said here.

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I'm not sure why this image is here. I'll consult my intern.

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With this image, some of you may be foreseeing the death of suede patches. Remember when your father started watching Japanese cartoons with you and they suddenly were no longer cool? Damn old people ruining trends that the youth come up with.

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Oh wow! Suede patches are so cool that Thom Browne uses them!

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UH-OH! LOOKS LIKE SOMEONE GOT CAUGHT RED HANDED DOING SOME "UH-HUH YOU KNOW WHAT!"

And there you have it: suede patches are cool so long as old people don't totally take the coolness out of it. Jeez, it's not like they invented it or anything.

Photos from:
streetfsn
GQ Eye: Tommy Ton

Saturday, August 13, 2011

Reading List #2

Zi6_0430

Read more comic books and less Franzen.

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Francis

You are the sum of your actions. That’s what the wealthy, the elite, the talented, the charming, the blessed, and those whose visions were rooted in the material - allowing them an easier time at obtaining them than those who’s visions occurred on another planet - all said. It’s easy to work hard when your road is yellow and brick. Francis prescribed to this doctrine. He was not in a position where he was happy to say that he was the sum of his actions, but he was sure that if he worked hard enough and with a bit of miracle arithmetic, he’d come out a fine number. He worked hard; filling out spreadsheets for a firm that did nothing in particular had paid well. He lived in a town where doing well was not a common thing. Cleveland hadn’t done well in years. The year that LeBron and Harvey Pekar left, one to Miami and one into the dirt, had been a rough one. Francis had survived and was making his way up; up into some social status that he could look down to his peers and say, “Well, the weather is nice. It’s certainly not as windy.” Things had been going well. He liked his name, which had a bit of old world wealth to it despite being Jewish, and he enjoyed the unstructured jackets he had purchased. If those actions went into the formula at the end, one word in his sum would be ‘elegant’. His sum was certainly increasing. This would change one day.

He sat on the toilet, thinking about nothing in particular. Perhaps how a master’s would look on his resume. That was quite an action to add to his sum. But he probably wasn’t thinking as he left his sportcoat on while sitting on the white pot. Finished, he stood up, turned around and realized what had happened. It was a debacle. Well not entirely, but for the most part. He had successfully gotten most of the shit in the toilet bowl, a small number to add to his sum, but a number none-the-less. However, his jacket, which he had meant to take to the tailor, was a tad long for him, and, as he took it off to investigate, had a smattering of shit hanging off the back. “Oh, this will not do. Not do at all. What a tragedy. What a cruel, unfortunate, unforeseeable mistake!” He cried to himself, though the man peeing in the other stall heard as well. He had made embarrassing mistakes before but never while prescribing to this philosophy. This wretched number would ruin his finale. His sum would forever read, “Francis: Sportcoat Shitter”. Tired and smelly, he did his best to remove the incident from his sportcoat. Then he balled up the cleaning supplies, balled it up with his old philosophical prescription, and tossed it into the pot. He flushed and went out to the sink, washed his hands – rubbing them almost raw – and went out the door with no idea who he was or who he intended to be. It was nice and refreshing.

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Kimmel x Carhartt

Adam Kimmel’s lookbooks would indicate that he did the costume design for Napoleon Dynamite. You could call his stuff cute or sensitive, but never graceful or anything aspirational. I’m not sure if I like it. His mainline looks tend for focus on the quirkiness, hidden selfishness, and imperfectability of humanity that few romanticists can get behind. It features people who wish to be left alone to enjoy their hobby - only coming out for the weekends or a movie caper; then they’ll gladly accept human company, though never offering society anything otherwise. It features happy, but small (not in the physical sense), ideas of people.

Adam Kimmel x Carhartt appears to deviate little from his quirky roots. With intentionally kitschy details it gives little room for people to assume the grandiose of a person. It’s just another person infatuated with their own eccentricity. However, I will admit that the suiting is nice though I don’t believe I’d wear both jacket and pants together. They seem like they would look best with other things. We saw this Carhartt collab not too long ago on high snobiety and through capsule shots but I’m not sure that I can be any saltier until I actually see it in the wild. Maybe I’m wrong and it doesn’t belittle the warmth of human nature. A little part of me hopes that the blazers don’t, because a little part of me really likes them.

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Perhaps what makes a well-fitting suit, without gaudy self-aggrandizing details, great is that it indicates that a man is willing to take the time and effort to make himself contribute to an ideal that is bigger than just being an individual.