Takuji Suzuki‘s line ts(s) was received as a designy hipster bleh by the blogosphere (still uncomfortable using that term). On SartInc someone made a Zoolander reference. I think part of me agreed, but, unlike most everyone else, part of me didn't. I don't know what it is about this collection, but some of the garments look "real". For example, let me take you through this picture below.
The colors are dull and boring, but who wants to wear pink in the winter? Starting with the shirt/tie combo, I'd have to say the BD and wool tie look pretty killer. Nothing much different from last winter, so at least he isn't trying to change menswear drastically. The pants: nothing to see here. Takuji seems to keep it conservative here. The suede jacket starts to pull everything together. The zipper on the suede jacket does a great job of varying the closure type. Instead of seeing button-button-button, we have button-zipper-button. This ends up looking much better layering wise. When you make one layer different than the rest, it helps everything look finished yet unthoughtful. Try layering like this, and you'll notice how much better it looks. The top wool coat makes the look. Washed out and homeless, maybe; but this coat definitely has some style. Notice the contrast at the top of the collar, which is just a nice detail that makes the coat look like it's not just a ruined coat. The coat changes the color palette from grey to blue. If it was grey, you'd achieve the effect of when someone matches their pocket square to their tie - too put together and boring. This look is very thoughtfully unthoughtful. Takuji knows what's up even if you don't agree with some of his fits.
And yes, I too was confused by the ill fitting pants and rain parka.