When writing, most authors have a tendency to resort to
clichés specific to the genre. Western short stories are wind-swept, romance novels are ravished,
and menswear essays are classic.
There are plenty of other clichés in menswear writing: “This hoodie/nylon/fish-tail/40%
herringbone/iPad case thing/coffee cup holder is an updated classic” and “Budd
Dwyer was a sartorial icon and I get inspiration from him all the time” fall
under the apron of cliché as would many others. If you’re here reading this, you
probably already know the drill.
As a menswear
blogger, I know that I’ve occasionally resorted to clichés but I know that I’ve
tried to grow beyond and avoid them when possible. Still, I notice that
menswear writers still have a chub for words like “classic” and “timeless”
(though we tuck our chubs under our ribbon belts).
So I went out and took some generally well-respected
bloggers to put them to a test: how many times did they use words that they
menswear community has “blown out”? How often did they use the words, (quint)essential, icon(ic), curate(curation), and aesthetic over a period of 50 posts?
I discounted anytime any of the searched words was used
tongue-in-cheek. I discounted any articles that weren’t written by the main
proprietor of the blog and any press clippings included in a blogger’s article.
I excluded any articles the bloggers wrote for other blogs or publications.
A Continuous Lean
The Blogger: Called the
“blog-father” in some circles, Michael Williams runs “A Continuous Lean”. His
blog features many points of middle Americana that NY and LA forget about when
discussing style. When I first started reading his blog back in 2008, he was
featuring factory tours, vintage kodachromes, and the desks of designers and
editors from the NY menswear circle. Now he and contributors post pictures of
the places they vacation (he still does factory tours, kodachromes, and desk
features but less so), Italian jackets, and Americana products that a fan of an
AFC North team might like (i.e. totally fucking stupid beer coozies). His blog now resembles a blog of someone who
works for Paul + Williams and is perhaps more introspective than it was a few
years ago. I figure MW gets a pass for
his blog being less entertaining than it was in 2009 or 2010 because he’s
written books worth of material. Do you know how hard it is to create new
content when you’re not just writing about a product that you happen to like,
have never actually laid hands on, and you actually have a real job?
The Outlier: If you want to call menswear blogging a
movement (I’d rather you not), you could make a case that MW helped start it.
So when he uses a word like “iconic” is it cliché or is it just his jam? Does
being “OG” give you a free pass?
The Bias: Every single fan of an AFC North team sucks. This
isn’t a complaint about him but a complaint about his target audience for
totally fucking stupid beer coozies.
The Results:
Quintessential (1), Essential (1), Iconic (3), Icon (6),
Curate (0), Curation (0), Aesthetic (4)
Words (12,889)
Cliché Words/Total Posts = (0.30)
Cliché Words/Total Words = (0.00116)
Cliché words appeared in 30% of the 50 posts that I pulled, which was one of the higher
numbers of the blogs that I looked at. I would expect that percentage to hold
when considering MW’s posts for a longer period of time, though have no grounds
to base this assumption on other than knowing that MW has used these words
throughout his blogging “career” (lol). But MW isn’t sweating in his unionmade
long-johns worrying about how many times he used the word icon in his last post, as his blog is generally photo driven with
text as accompaniment. MW isn’t blowing anything out of the water with his
written content but at least he isn’t one of those goddamn menswear philosophists.
I mean, we should give him kudos for making it out of Cleveland and not give
him shit for using icon a few more
times than he should have.
Die, Workwear!
The Blogger: Since Derek Guy starting blogging for “Put This
On”, his posts have been less frequent at “Die, Workwear!”. “Die, Workwear!”
now resembles something that you might call “Derek’s Corner” or something
cheesebally like that, as he posts on topics that are deemed too lame or too
banal to post on PTO. “Die, Workwear!” is now obscure menswear geekery and news
updates on what Derek is buying (reading about what a guy is planning on buying
is never not weird).
The Bias: Derek has an editor that has helped him avoid
cliché in his work on PTO. I would assume that this would carry over into “Die,
Workwear!” and give him a leg up in avoiding clichéd menswear words. How much
of “Die, Workwear!” is written with an editor in mind? I factored that Derek
has worked with an editor as to not give him too much credit after I totaled
his results.
[Editor's Note: Turns out Derek doesn't have an editor at PTO. Who'da guessed?]
[Editor's Note: Turns out Derek doesn't have an editor at PTO. Who'da guessed?]
The Results:
Quintessential (0), Essential (0), Iconic (2), Icon (0),
Curate (0), Curation (0), Aesthetic (0)
Words: 15,129
Cliché Words/Total Posts = (0.04)
Cliché Words/Total Words = (0.00013)
Cliché words appear in 4%
of the 50 posts that I pulled (so two). Compared to the rest of the blogs that
we’re looking at, that’s low. I have no jokes for this. Derek is good at what
he does.
Wax-Wane
The Blogger: Jake Gallagher runs themed weeks on his blog,
“Wax-Wane”, and he’ll write a post roughly every day about a subject that falls
within the theme. He will often write about the historical background of
clothing brands or the like and “drop knowledge”. On one hand, you could
picture him being a senile old man droning on about ancient things nobody cares
about, while on the other you could call him a sort of nascent David McCullough
(these are essentially the same thing, it’s just that one sounds like an insult
and the other sounds like a complement [you get to decide which is which]).
Also, sprezzy punctuation; is cool > I guess/
The Outlier: Many of the cliché words that Jake used
appeared in a Wes Anderson themed week. This may speak more about Wes
Anderson’s preciousness than about Jake’s tendency towards using those words.
I’m under the belief that Wes is a bit of a weenie and that the only way to
describe his films – as Jake attempts to do -- may be through cliché, but I
understand that some people think he’s great.
The Bias: Like Derek, Jake has an editor for some of his
work (but none for “Wax-Wane”) so I would’ve expected the skewed by Jake having
an editor in mind when he writes. I’m not sure that this is the case. I’m going
to leave this issue lie.
The Results:
Quintessential (3), Essential (0), Iconic (2), Icon (3),
Curate (1), Curation (0), Aesthetic (21)
Words: 19,616 (Jake’s word total over 50 posts is 4,000 more
than the next closest blog)
Cliché Words/Total Posts = (0.6)
Cliché Words/Total Words = (0.00153)
I’m cutting Jake a break here because he used aesthetic
quite a few times during Wes Anderson week. When talking about Wes Anderson, I
would imagine it to hard avoiding using the phrase “Wes Anderson’s aesthetic”
(thus I stand by my statement that Wes is a weenie). I’m also cutting him a
break because he hasn’t been at this as long as Derek or MW. It’s only fair.
That being said, he could ease off the use of “aesthetic” a bit as cliché words
appear in 60% of his posts. The word
“aesthetic” appears in 42% of his
posts (this is not entirely correct as he would often use “aesthetic” multiple
times in a single post, but I suck at math so to find this percentage I just
took cliché words and divided it by total posts [so 50, if you were paying attention]).
However, redeeming for Jake is his Cliché Words divided by
Total Word count. .153% is not
significantly different than MW’s, which was .116%. And MW never had to write about “Wes Anderson’s aesthetic”
for an entire week.
Ivy-Style
The Blogger: Christian Chensvold sometimes appears to be
running a community rather than a blog but his ‘community’ is just an extension
of Ask Andy forums (they’re weird, so stick to your tumblr). This community is
hard to define but you can generally tell them from others by their disdain of
the direction Brooks Brothers is going, their hatred of Rugby Ralph Lauren with
all the fake patches (they hate fake patches and false assumption to a role
that you did not earn but bought), their acceptance of the rule that you don’t
have to be WASPy to like ivy style and that membership is bought by a trip to
JPress (oh, the irony), and a unifying hatred for F.E. Castleberry (which I
thought was the greatest pen name since Mark Twain, or Silence Dogood, or maybe
even Johannes de Silentio -- until I realized that it wasn’t a pen name) and
his website, Unabashedly Prep. Regardless, Christian Chensvold and Ivy-Style
got the inspection that all the other went through.
[Editor's Note: We should take note of Chensvold's fight against over-usage of the word "aesthetic" and "sprezzatura". Also, see his creation of "new words" for the community including 'prepsloitation'.]
[Editor's Note: We should take note of Chensvold's fight against over-usage of the word "aesthetic" and "sprezzatura". Also, see his creation of "new words" for the community including 'prepsloitation'.]
The Bias: Christian often presents press clippings, or guest
features, with a few words but those still had to be included. Christian had
the smallest word count by far. An easy way to avoid cliché is to not write
that much. Ivy-Style appeared to be much more of a dumping ground for trad news
than I expected which would skew the results as it featured little of
Chensvold’s writing. In retrospect, my time would have been better served
scouring another blog for dirt because
Chensvold didn’t have much of his own writing over 50 posts.
The Results:
Quintessential (0), Essential (0), Iconic (0), Icon (2),
Curate (0), Curation (0), Aesthetic (0)
Words: 11,229
Cliché Words/Total Posts = (0.04)
Cliché Words/Total Words = (0.00018)
While his Cliché Words/Total Posts percentage equal’s Derek
Guy’s (4%), this number is not a terribly good indicator of Chensvold’s usage.
I feel like Cliché Words/Total Words has served this article better as you get
a better feel of how often the blogger goes for cliché words. For example, Jake
Gallagher’s word count is not far from twice Chensvold’s word count.
Chensvold’s Cliché Words/Total Words percentage is .018% is .005% higher
than Derek Guy’s, which is actually significant.
Conclusion: My only hope from this article is that menswear
writers will recognize their weaknesses and continue to get better. Cliché
words in menswear aren’t the devil and are occasionally unavoidable (i.e. “Wes
Anderson’s aesthetic” and “totally
fucking stupid and classic beer
coozie”) but if avoidable, we should take the long route and get a bit creative
(i.e. “Wes Anderson’s silly image of how the world should work i.e. we all
dress like we need a wedgie in the worst way” or “totally fucking stupid and
totally fucking stupid beer coozie”).
Also, the fantasy blogger league will kick off 1/1/13. Buy
in is $50. Avoidance of cliché words will garner points for blogs as well as
post frequency, word count, and the amount of times a blogger says that they’re
good at sex in an interview. No flakes. Only hardcore fantasy players will be
allowed in. The draft kit will be sent out in December.
Check Ivy-Style.com for Chensvold's excessive of the word "sprezzatura".
ReplyDeleteHe typically uses sprezzatura sarcastically. So I'm not sure if it's a "true" cliche word as it is being used for something other than it actually is.
ReplyDeleteThis blog continues to be one of the funniest around.
ReplyDeleteTo my credit, I don't have an editor at PTO or DWW.
Either way, I'm definitely changing my blog's name to "Derek's Corner."
Die workwear (derek's corner) is very excellent.
ReplyDeleteBut gtbt is even better. Who else would do this stuff ?!!! His kinda stuff?!! His semi absurd (it is menswear blogging after all) bit fairly rigorous and entertaining stuff is genuinely wonderful.
ReplyDeleteChinsfold started using the word sprezzatura and its derivatives with sarcasm only after being called out for sounding like a douche.
ReplyDeleteThen my search would not have gone back far enough. I only pulled 50 recent posts with his writing.
ReplyDeleteWhat, no WASP 101?
ReplyDeleteBig fan of Die, Workwear!, however the word you should be looking for there is "elegance" and its derivatives.
ReplyDeleteAwesome, good use of filtering and controls to make the results as valid as possible. There should be some sort of program that parses menswear blogs for overuse of these words and spams their comments section until they change it. Also, I would have expected ACL to fare worse, given what an iconic menswear blog they are...
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