Saturday, March 2, 2013

Mayer & Visvim


#menswear has come to terms with it’s purchasing epilepsy where one can hemorrage money through the Visa. No longer are pants timeless or will last us a lifetime. When someone proposes their clothing as such, the response is a self-contained laugh or a mental run-through of one’s own sartorial future which usually formulates a reply of, “I don’t know, maybe.” Some things last a while. Some things don’t. Whatever. I have funds (sometimes). 

“Starving children can screw off, I don’t feel bad.”

#menswear currently struggling with constantly apophatically describing their own style. “Is” as a descriptor doesn’t separate them from the crowd so, “hey, go fuck yourself, my style is beyond community. It’s me. You can’t define it with any verbal terms. It’s completely unique (at this point the irony tastes like taco vomit or coffee burps)”. 

Seems fair, I’ll let it slide because calling people out is a lot of work.

I’m just trying to find my everyday uniform.

You know, the thing I can put on every morning.

Except the days I wear skirts.

And the days I’m an Italian patriarch.

And the days I ride those old non-symmetrical skateboards and 5-panels.

Recently, I was working on a piece about John Mayer and Visvim. I don’t care about segues. You’ll be fine without one. You’re intelligent because you care about how you dress.

It got shelved because all the man talks about are watches. Which, as you may already know, aren’t tepees (which, as Visvim lookbooks would lead me to believe, are the only things Visvim makes). This is a thought dump of what I collected.

Mayer is a collector. He likes stuff. He’s sort of like an American male uber-consumer. You see a lot of those type of men these days but Mayer has a lot more resources to throw around. Some men collect Abercrombie t-shirts -- seems inane and something they might not tell you specifically but probably provable for an astonishing large amount of men who spend money at A&F -- and some men collect 5-figure watches and 4-figure shoes. 

Mayer knows he gets made fun of for what he wears. He seems to be alright with it. 

For John Mayer, watches are an end in themselves and he enjoys writing about them. This is interesting because some people in this menswear movement view clothing as ends in themselves -- you buy something because it is made well and an ideal article of clothing. Y’know, “this is THE t-shirt.” Others view clothing as a medium to put together “fits” or uniforms. Mayer is the former when it comes to watches. To him they are beautiful and don’t serve any real particular purpose other than to be great objects -- his intro on Hodinkee appears to back this up. If he sees clothes in the same light, I cannot really tell. He hasn’t elaborated enough yet. Someone should ask him. Hell, someone needs to sit down and listen to old Grateful Dead tapes with him and have him explain one or two. That would be brilliant journalism. Would someone like to fund that?

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Or you could just pay someone to ask him about his newest CD and his celebrity love life. What does he think of the papparazzi? How does he ever deal with fame? Katy Perry? T-Swift? Life philosophy? ‘Cause that will affect how I view the world. We should all view the world like celebrities. We should read more interviews that espouse the the distribution of their ontologies.

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So is Mayer a Visvim fanatic like everyone claimed after he released the video for ‘Shadow Days’? It would seem to be the case; a substantial portion of what he wears in the video is Visvim (most notable being the Wabanaki Boots-Folk). If any person of sub-$300,000 income wore the amount of Visvim that Mayer does, you would say that they were a fanatic. But Mayer makes considerably more than $300,000. For someone of Mayer’s stature, buying all Visvim is not absurd. It doesn’t take multiple trips to the store or waiting to make sure you can meet the credit card charge. Celebrities can go into a shop, say “Visvim is cool, I guess,” and walk out completely outfitted in Visvim. The amount of thought and pursuit required for a celebrity to acquire these things is minimal.  Collecting for Mayer is easier than for you or me.

From this, I think it is difficult to say that John Mayer is a Visvim fanatic. He certainly enjoys the look and aesthetic but the amount of time that he thinks about the brand is probably limited. Proof for either argument is limited but I think the telling data is this: he writes about watches for Hodinkee. John Mayer likes watches a lot. He is a consumer. He likes acquiring musical equipment (inherent in anyone who can play a chord or keep a 4/4), clothing, women, probably cars (who doesn’t like cars), and, at the apex, watches. He writes about them. How much do you have to enjoy something in order to form your enjoyment into words? Words are fairly weak communicators, so wouldn’t that need to express your enjoyment have to be great?

Allegedly John Mayer got turned onto Visvim by Eric Clapton. Who cares? Men are great consumers, men like Clapton and Mayer are prime examples as their collections of things expand. As good as women if we allow ourselves to accept it. Is being a good consumer good for society? An economist would say so. 

But economists can’t graph narcissism. 


Thursday, February 21, 2013

NYFW: In Hindsight


EDITOR’S NOTE: THE FOLLOWING SERIES OF EMAILS OCCURRED BETWEEN TWO PARTIES OF THIS BLOG.

Sam Franklin
Subject: NYFW
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 9:46 AM:
Wat did you think of nyfw

Sam Franklin
Subject: Re: NYFW
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 9:49 AM:
Wat did you think of nyfw pls email me soon possible

John Lugg
Subject: Re: NYFW
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 10:02 AM:
It was alright, I guess. Billy Reid was cool.

Sam Franklin
Subject: Re: NYFW
Sent Tuesday, February 19, 2013 10:02 AM:
What did u think of street style

Do you have anything to complan about like all theother bloggers who are washed up

John Lugg
Subject: Re: NYFW
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 10:57 AM:
Of the collections? No, not really. Nothing was atrocious. Everything was nice and looked alright to me.

I don’t care about blogger drama. That seems kind of dumb. And a waste of time.

However, now that I have some time to reflect on it I do have an input, however inane.

As more menswear bloggers start paying more attention to fashion shows rather than buyer exhibitions, I think some things need to start to shift – and in certain areas – are already shifting.

At buyer exhibitions, photographers catch the details. They stop the passage of time to allow the reader/viewer to take some time with a garment that they may not even have when they are looking at the garment in a shop. Sure, you don’t get the feel and weight of the garment, but you know what to expect. There are a lot of menswear photographers who are very good at catching those little details that give you a great impression and feel of the garment.

But as you watch fashion shows, what does the photographer do? They capture little details and brief, quiet moments of time. Can they fully express what is going on at the show? They could do that when they took 10 pictures of a pair of jeans and posted it to a blog, but 10 pictures of a fashion show does little to convey what is actually going on there. When I sit down and view photographer’s work at fashion shows, the quiet expression is what is most praise-worthy – it is the photographer’s ability to capture a special moment rather than convey the entirety of the show. This is all good, I’m for photography as an art, but I think evaluating shows through pieces of art is difficult.

For the internet “consumer,” you can’t go to shows and looking at pictures isn’t ideal. There are the art photographers, as previously mentioned, and those awful, low-res, shots that national publications collect. There has got to be a way to see the show “better.”

Here is where video comes in. People have been taking videos of shows for a few years now, but I don’t think they’ve started to pick-up until recently.

Take in point, Billy Reid from his S/S 2013 show:
 


I can’t say I’m blown away. It still sort of feels like those inorganic shots that GQ collects after each show.

Now watch Billy Reid’s F/W 2013:

Improvement?

I think there’s a lot of improvement. I actually enjoyed F/W 2013. It captured details, mood, and the general feel of the clothing and show. It moves the viewer along and doesn’t allow the video to stagnate. People are figuring out that video can be effective. They’re using it. I, the internet consumer, am enjoying it.


Sam Franklin
Subject: Re: NYFW
Sent Tuesday, February 19, 2013 11:02 AM:

Wow ur dumb

Wednesday, February 13, 2013

MDI


Today I present to you an index for measuring #menswear douchiness. Authored by a long-distance runner I am friends with (now a grad student studying LAZRS and OPTICZ), the index is titled the, “Menswear Douche Index”, or the MDI for short.

The formula is as follows:

(Current US Poverty Line x number of accessories^2)/(your income)

So the formula works as shown:

The more accessories you wear, the higher your MDI.

The less you make, the higher your MDI.

For the first part of the formula, I propose this: those who earn more in society have a lower “place” than those who earn less. An individual who cannot afford his lease but buys bespoke is generally looked down upon in society. You know how people say things like, “but he’s Tom Cruise, he can get away with it”? They drive you nuts too? Well, let us allow them to have their way in this formula and set the first part of the formula as such.

The categorization of accessory and necessity is a matter of taste. For a #menswear community, let us take necessity as a shirt, tie, blazer (with a TV folded white pocket square), trousers, underwear (all underwear counts as necessity, let’s not get into it), socks, (okay, I guess for the watch heads) a watch, and shoes. Necessity changes depending on the weather as Bean Boots are acceptable in the rain and now, a polo without a jacket is acceptable in the summer, and a parka with gloves and hat is acceptable in the winter etc; I expect you to use good judgment on this one.
           
Accessories would be second watches, bracelets, sunglasses (in a nightclub), pens for people who don’t write anything down, flowers pinned to the lapel, a scarf in the summer (it’s called sunscreen, your parents slathered it on you when you were little, and you won’t die from it) suspenders that are shown (it’s like underwear on the outside), and anything that does not fall under necessary. This categorization is difficult and requires you to think about the reasons why a person might be carrying an umbrella or wearing those glasses. Wouldn’t reason be subjective? Such is attempting to quantify a qualitative practice. This formula applied to the #menswear world finds itself to be highly subjective so the MDI requires a fair and unbiased eye in order to maintain its objectivity.

Let’s do a quick run through with this pic from Scotty-Who-Thinks-He’s-A-Hotty-I Guess-But-In-All-Honesty-I can’t-Think-Why-Not.  Let’s say that this guy’s income is $60,000. I have not idea if this is anywhere close to accurate. If you haven’t noticed, sometimes I just make shit up. The poverty line for 1 person is roughly $11,000. Alright, now let’s count accessories.

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Earrings (1). Fur-collar (2). Those pants (3). Some might throw more or less articles into the accessory category but this theory is currently poorly developed. 1,2,3. Three accessories.

($11,000 x 3^2) / $60,000 = 1.65

So with an income of $60,000, this guy’s MDI is 1.65 which isn’t horrible, I guess. Maybe. I don’t know. I haven’t actually taken any relevant data because no one will tell me how much they make in a year. And everyone I know is unemployed. So whatever.

            At the time of the formula’s creation, the creator and his friends saw a high MDI as a sign of douchiness. However, I am now under the impression that it’s just the complication and presumption of your dressing quantified. If you are able to fully embrace the number and become the number, then I would consider you a successful MDI measurement. If you aspire to the simplicity of 0, then there is a low expectation of the kind of person you have to be. If you aspire to the outrageousness of 8, then perhaps you need to aspire to be a great, flamboyant, and have – dammit – an actually interesting personality.

But perhaps this: rather than using your income as a number in the MDI, why not use your personality as the second factor? While this would be more than suitable, how would you quantify your personality? I know that I’m the most likeable out of all the people in my community so my MDI has to be very low. Wait, is likeability even transitive to personality?

As I step back and look at how this formula would function in society, I have to admit that it is completely worthless and looks to be the sort of thing that would stifle the creativity and joy of putting clothes on in the morning. However, as you put on your clown suit of Belvest, Brioni, APC, Quoddy, Red Wing, J.PRESS, and Rick Owens, may I suggest you step back and do a few calculations? A little math in the morning never hurt anyone. And you might realize that you have a higher number to project to than you once thought.


           


Wednesday, January 30, 2013

Beams + S/S 2013

Beams Plus S/S 2013 has come and gone across your RSS feed (assuming you know how to use one) and I am yet to impart an opinion to your opinionless mind.

Menswear peeps don't got no opinions so that's why people like Sam and I need to supply you with one.

It's cool, I guess.

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This look is heavily influenced by the failure of Lehman Bros.

Or your neighborhood wino.

But only winos south of the Mason-Dixon line. Winos north of DC wear a ton of coats all the time.

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Beams Plus must be Asia's Gap.

That automatically makes it cooler than America's Gap but less cool in respect to other Asian brands.

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The grey socks are a nice touch.

Having seen all the looks, I notice that many of the looks are influenced by Americans wandering around in the woods on acid. It's Heritage in that respect. Like 'Dead Head' Heritage.

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This is also 'Dead Head' Heritage. But pre-'Dead Head' Heritage. It's like Beams Plus is referencing all time periods before, during, and after the 'Dead Head' movement. So the past 60 years, right?

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Abuse isn't recreational.

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Cardigans and capris are very Slovak.

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When I was about 4 years old, this was how my mother dressed my older brother and me.

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When will the internet be done with tote bags? Do men actually use them? Do they only use them when they have kids? Do they keep things other than diapers in them?

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Beams Plus is so dull I have nothing to say.

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If I were getting paid to do this I'd be so fired.

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"OH LOOK IT'S TODD FUCKING SNYDER!"

"NO, IT'S ACTUALLY BEAMS FUCKING PLUS SPRING SUMMER 2013!"

"NO WAY? REALLY? ARE YOU SURE IT'S NOT TODD FUCKING SNYDER!"

"YES, I'M SURE. TODD SNYDER ONLY USES ANGLO-AMERICAN MODELS AND THE ONE TOKEN BLACK GUY!"

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"OH LOOK IT'S TODD FUCKING -- WAIT A MINUTE, IT'S BEAMS PLUS JUST LIKE THE LAST ONE!"

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This is what Frenchmen wear when they go to masturbate in public.

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"OH LOOK, HOW DID MY MOTHER'S TALBOT'S CATALOG JPEGS GET INTO THIS SLIDESHOW?"

"THAT'S NOT YOUR MOTHER'S TALBOT'S CATALOG! IT'S BEAMS PLUS!"

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If the Applacian Trail had an intestine...

Not that these looks are bad though.

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These are just a bunch of random clothes thrown on a model.

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SWERVE.

Beams Plus throws you a curveball with a Thomas the Tank Engine look on the last fit.

What do you even do man? What do you even do?



Beams Plus is Japan's Gap.


Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Schwinnwear


I was reading Moon Knight the other day -- the Benson run -- and realized that Moon Knight wears white regardless of the season. He doesn’t care about societal rules. He stencils muthafuckas foreheads. 

Sounds familiar.

Sounds like #menswear.

Wearing white whenever you want, rambling about some look from Pitti, and stenciling reblogs with your sign is VERY Moon Knight/#menswear. 

#menswear is a double edged sword of lunacy (or lunarcy -- HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH). Fuck the rules. Obey the rules. What I’m doing is relevant. What I’m doing is irrelevant.


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He rocks the matching socks and shirt. I know some people who would do this. OCD is a disease.

People who have OCD wake up in the morning, put on a pair of socks, then take them off, then put on another pair, then match their underwear to their socks, then take the underwear off, then pick out a sweater and match their underwear to their sweater, then match their shirt to their socks.

Then they put on pants and the chosen sweater.

Then they put shoes on. Maybe. If they did everything in order. 

Then they take everything off and put it back on again. 

Bob Hope’s penny loafers look schlick -- Vernon Davis menswear schlick. Vernon Davis is very relevant as are Bob Hope’s penny loafers.

Date Rape S/S ’14.

Anyway, this fit sucks (IMO -- the most important menswear caveat). I’m glad he uploaded it to sufu so everyone can make fun of him.

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Check the dude on the left with the yellow shirt, what looks like sky blue corduroy shorts, and a white belt not made out of natural materials.

Schwinn catalog covers were the worst. 

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Check the guy in the front. He’s wearing something similar to the guy in the previous picture, but with a pastel palatte. 

Some people are very against wearing shorts. Was this caused by scarring from old Schwinn catalog covers? This seems to be a fair theory.

I’ll run with it. Like all ill-fated trends, Schwinnwear seems destined for a rebound and for acceptance into the tongue-in-cheek-but-also-up-your-butt world of menswear. 

Who is the future designer that will carry the torch of Schwinnwear? Will it be you? Will you be reinterpreting the classics of corduroy shorts and synthetic belts? 

Schwinnwear for good and for bad. It’ll always be with us as it’s imprinted into our sartorial history.

Jean shorts and polos are mad comfortable.

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80s Schwinnwear was dope as hell.

Tight t-shirts, pleated khakis, and sneakers seems to be my destiny. How those pant leg openings didn’t get caught in the chain is beyond me, kerchief-tied-to-right-leg be damned. Look at that perfect break though. It’s gorgeous. 

Hoodies and shorts are due for a moment. It’s been too long. And by too long I mean since middle school.

Middleschoolwear S/S ’15?

Sunday, January 13, 2013

Trend Watch: Pitti Uomo 2013

After all the pictures from Pitti Uomo 2013 came out, Sam and I sat down and attempted to synthesize it into something meaningful. The following is what we came up with:

JL: There's lots of stuff going on here. I'm not sure if we take these things and say anything relevant with them. Floppy hats will be worn poorly starting now.

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SF: clothes are very in

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JL: I would agree. Clothes are a trend in all these photos.

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SF: clothes are so more in than they were at pitti 2012

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SF: nekkid is no longer in remember when bands had nekkid peple on their album cover

JL: Clothes would seem to be a recurring theme at a trade-show.

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SF: look somepeole wear their clothes silly

JL: Is wearing your clothing silly a trend?

SF: i wuld say im a style expert

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JL: Look at this photo. Is the zipper jacket a post-clothing reference to being in the nude? Remember when some writer called men's ankles similar to women's cleavage? Is this similar? Is it a hint at back cleavage? Is this post-menswear but pre-androgynouswear?

SF: i wold say that i think that i will clothes this year as they are very in

JL: You heard it here first. Clothes will be 'in' for 2013.

Photos from Tommy Ton, Selectism, and Men's Reverie.



Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Christmas Is Coming


My father was driving the car thirty miles north from our small rural town to a smaller rural town. I sat in the passenger seat. We didn’t listen to anything but the shushing of the cold road. We drove along the west branch of the Susquehanna, which at that point isn’t nestled in a river valley, but divides a series of mountains, smashing it’s way to it’s destination. It was the first snowfall but the snow never made it past halfway down the mountains, which like other mountains in Pennsylvania, are all the same damn height. You could see snow peeking out beneath the cover of the pines. It wasn’t Christmas yet. I guess you could call it appropriate the way Jack Frost just couldn’t wait.

We were visiting a nursing home and I was along to witness an old man signing a will. 

My father is an attorney so that’s the sort of business we were about.

I don’t need to tell you what a nursing home smells like. 

We found the old man past a few people -- who looked no older than my dad -- unable to take care of themselves. The people just sat. They sat and farted. That’s what you do when you can’t do anything else.

The old man sat alone in the common room. The TV was blaring loudly but he couldn’t hear it. He was reading a book that looked well older than me. We sat down and my father discussed the requested changes to the will with the old man. The old man read everything and re-read everything. He had a stuffy nose so he pulled a ragged paper towel out of his front shirt pocket and blew his nose. He ripped off a sheet of newspaper from  the adjacent table, put the paper towel folded in it, and placed it back into his front shirt pocket. 

The old man had only recently been moved into the nursing home. He was capable of taking care of himself but his house was so-far-removed from the so-far-removed town that his children had no other option but to move him into the nursing home. The children were removed from the so-far-removed town -- they had headed off to some Eden of theirs. They had been long gone and deep snow is a danger to stubborn old men.

When my father asked the old man sign every page of his will, the man paused. I couldn’t tell if it was his cold but the old man’s eyes looked glazed with tears. 

The old man was reticent. He wasn’t worried about signing away his stuff. I mean, look at us. Most of us have too much shit and never remember to use it or even what to do with it. We are horrid in our materialism. He wasn’t sad about signing his stuff away. He was sad about signing away his memories. 

When you get old, you forget. When you get old, you die. Sometimes you don’t get to tell people about why you did things the way you did them. Sometimes you don’t get to share a memory that was significant... somehow. Well, how it was significant you can’t really remember but you do remember that it was significant. We store memories in our stuff; little bits of info that helps dig up something lost into our consciousness. When you lose the stuff that you store memories in, you lose it forever. You lose little bits of your Eden, the memory of good things -- good people and good times. You lose your Garden.

The old man gathered himself, in a central PA way where you puff out your stomach and sink lower into your chair, and began signing. I think the man knew that, while those memories are important, you can never share them again in that way that you want. They’re a false Eden, where things are great but only inside of your head. You can’t share those memories with others. At least, not in the way that you want. They always come out distorted or in the wrong hue. Those memories can’t be passed down through your things like a library passes down information.They’re your Eden but they’re an Eden that can’t be shared.The old man knew that and he signed every single page.

“There’s snow on the mountains,” my father told the old man. The old man set down the pen. “Well, I suppose that there would be,” he replied, “Christmas is coming.”

We took our papers and said farewell. 

The old man smiled at something only he knew.