Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Christmas Is Coming


My father was driving the car thirty miles north from our small rural town to a smaller rural town. I sat in the passenger seat. We didn’t listen to anything but the shushing of the cold road. We drove along the west branch of the Susquehanna, which at that point isn’t nestled in a river valley, but divides a series of mountains, smashing it’s way to it’s destination. It was the first snowfall but the snow never made it past halfway down the mountains, which like other mountains in Pennsylvania, are all the same damn height. You could see snow peeking out beneath the cover of the pines. It wasn’t Christmas yet. I guess you could call it appropriate the way Jack Frost just couldn’t wait.

We were visiting a nursing home and I was along to witness an old man signing a will. 

My father is an attorney so that’s the sort of business we were about.

I don’t need to tell you what a nursing home smells like. 

We found the old man past a few people -- who looked no older than my dad -- unable to take care of themselves. The people just sat. They sat and farted. That’s what you do when you can’t do anything else.

The old man sat alone in the common room. The TV was blaring loudly but he couldn’t hear it. He was reading a book that looked well older than me. We sat down and my father discussed the requested changes to the will with the old man. The old man read everything and re-read everything. He had a stuffy nose so he pulled a ragged paper towel out of his front shirt pocket and blew his nose. He ripped off a sheet of newspaper from  the adjacent table, put the paper towel folded in it, and placed it back into his front shirt pocket. 

The old man had only recently been moved into the nursing home. He was capable of taking care of himself but his house was so-far-removed from the so-far-removed town that his children had no other option but to move him into the nursing home. The children were removed from the so-far-removed town -- they had headed off to some Eden of theirs. They had been long gone and deep snow is a danger to stubborn old men.

When my father asked the old man sign every page of his will, the man paused. I couldn’t tell if it was his cold but the old man’s eyes looked glazed with tears. 

The old man was reticent. He wasn’t worried about signing away his stuff. I mean, look at us. Most of us have too much shit and never remember to use it or even what to do with it. We are horrid in our materialism. He wasn’t sad about signing his stuff away. He was sad about signing away his memories. 

When you get old, you forget. When you get old, you die. Sometimes you don’t get to tell people about why you did things the way you did them. Sometimes you don’t get to share a memory that was significant... somehow. Well, how it was significant you can’t really remember but you do remember that it was significant. We store memories in our stuff; little bits of info that helps dig up something lost into our consciousness. When you lose the stuff that you store memories in, you lose it forever. You lose little bits of your Eden, the memory of good things -- good people and good times. You lose your Garden.

The old man gathered himself, in a central PA way where you puff out your stomach and sink lower into your chair, and began signing. I think the man knew that, while those memories are important, you can never share them again in that way that you want. They’re a false Eden, where things are great but only inside of your head. You can’t share those memories with others. At least, not in the way that you want. They always come out distorted or in the wrong hue. Those memories can’t be passed down through your things like a library passes down information.They’re your Eden but they’re an Eden that can’t be shared.The old man knew that and he signed every single page.

“There’s snow on the mountains,” my father told the old man. The old man set down the pen. “Well, I suppose that there would be,” he replied, “Christmas is coming.”

We took our papers and said farewell. 

The old man smiled at something only he knew. 



Sunday, January 6, 2013

Sam Franklin Reviews Steven Alan S/S 2013

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i like tree button ocats they are cool they are kinda work wear

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this is pretty cool i like his hat its one of the best ones ive seen all year

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this guy looks like jim from the office

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i think this fit is from a gilt product shoot

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this guy dresses liike me

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HEY ITS ANDREW 3000 HAHAHAHAHAHA

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this guy is very cool hes proably going to pitti

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this guy looks like tj maxx

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this guys dresses like my friend josh who is cool

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this guy dresses like my mom

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cool coat looks like jcrew? is that a jcrew coat?

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prints are very in

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hey its john but black

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this guy is a kia commrcial

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i think this guys is just wearing underwer

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asians r cool

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this guys looks like he hangs out around walmart batrooms

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cool

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this guy looks like a guy in the street i saw once

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this is how all the french peple dress

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cool i wear it to a wedding or skatebrding

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this is cool its like 2002 or deathcab for cutie

steven alan is cool

its pichfork but a couple yrs ago

Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Ivy Style @ FIT


#menswear is marketing. It’s marketing in little, personal ways -- there are few large campaigns in #menswear -- but an orange is an orange and marketing is marketing. Ivy Style is a small part of #menswear, a subsection if you will. The men, and some women, who discuss ivy style are marketers with each internet post.

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Recently, I attended the Ivy Style exhibit at FIT. 

It was fuck-shit-terrible. 

There were a few interesting pieces -- I believe “few” is gracious -- most notable were the “Beer Suits” but the rest of it was just marketing. 

The topic of Ivy Style was the sartorial notions of the men who attended Ivy League schools in the decade and a half after WWII. There were maybe 30-35 mannequins in the exhibit. Thom Browne outfits were placed on roughly 5 of them. Thom Browne drags Ivy Style into the absurd as he jokes and has fun with his designs. Thom Browne had zero influence on the men of the Ivy Style era. Why was Thom Browne placed on so many mannequins? How does he expand our knowledge of Ivy Style? Don’t most jokes -- the sort that Thom Browne makes -- need a cultural background to be understood? Why include so much Thom Browne when canonical Ivy Style is so underrepresented?

I cannot imagine that footwear from the Ivy Style “era” is that difficult to procure. Why did they use McNairy shoes on over half the mannequins?

The write-ups on each mannequin were brief. I would have preferred more extensive information on each piece but c’est la vie. 

The Ralph Lauren brand wasn’t established until 1967, after the Ivy Style heyday. Ralph Lauren pieces were a large number of pieces in the exhibit. Why was this so?

Modern pieces do not expand our knowledge of the time period. Modern pieces appear to be there to be sold.

The Ivy Style exhibit seemed to be more crass than the personal marketing that #menswear is used to. 

If you happen to have a “brand”, take note: a museum exhibit shouldn’t be a commercial.

NOTE: I don't know anything about museum curation. Maybe my judgement is horribly wrong. If you are an expert in museum curation and know that my opinion is weak, please email me so that I can make amendments. 

Monday, December 24, 2012

Last Minute XMas Gift Guide

Don't know what to get your #menswear blogger for Christmas? Here's an easy list.

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This is like 75 cents. Problem solved. If he wants something he'll probably just buy it for himself anyway.

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Everybody likes comic books. Hellboy is pretty good. It's fast to read and you can re-read it a few times a year without getting bored. Mignola is a master.

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Toilet paper is not very exciting to unwrap. However, he'll probably use it more than a pair of Aldens. You poop every day (and if you're civilized, you wipe; unless he's sprezzy, then definitely not). You're supposed to rotate your shoes so he won't wear those shoes every day.

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Crisis On Infinite Earths is great. It sets up the entire DC Universe that we now... wait... Barry Allen is alive again? So is Hal Jordan? Never mind, this is a waste of money.

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You can get the entire Bone compendium in paperback on sale for, like, $30. That's stupid cheap. It's enough comic book to last a long-ass flight.

Oh, you wanted some clothing recommendations?

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Buy him some socks. He has too many fuckin' clothes anyway.

Merry Christmas.




Wednesday, December 5, 2012

TSB Fan-Fiction by Sam Franklin


In celebration of advances made on the TSB website and TSB in general, Sam Franklin wrote a fan-fiction that he wants to share with you. Here it is:

dan handed you a can with the top cut off with a rustic knife styled 3 different ways

here you go its just gasoline you should start huffing because its weedwacker gas and itll get you god and bussed he said

he takes you up the elevator too the new office this is where well do all the new shoots about socks and pants and wathces and scafres you meet alex and he takes you picture a bunch of times cause you style your hat cool what cool guys they are cool

you sit floors above the style plebians walking the streets and huff gasolin and dan gives you a odouls which you pop and chug and maybe but chug and you drink 25 and feel bussed you eat new york hot dogs and discuss casual pieces in work evnirvoments and dressed up pieces un cusual envirnmentals

he likes your insites and tells you you should du a feature becuase he likes cool and smart ppl you say sure

dan tells you as he sits at the head of a big table and everyone listens even the ants 20 storys down because dan give style advice

“i am doing big things i am the best bragger and nobody bumps their ego like i bump my ego i love me no one loves themselves as much as i do”

and then ryan plett walked in

Saturday, November 24, 2012

IM Convo: Good & Bad


A few days ago, Sam and I had a conversation over IM. The following conversation occured:

Sam Franklin 10/31/12 - 5:34PM:
hey wat do u think of the nu collections lik fall and winer

John Lugg 10/31/12 - 5:40PM:
I mean, collections are all kind of the same. Is anyone doing anything new?

Sam Franklin 10/31/12 - 5:40PM:
what do you think i was asking you for

John Lugg 10/31/12 - 5:41PM:
I see a lack of creativity. Some are almost A&F referential, like Bentham F/W ’12. What is that supposed to mean? That we value early 2000s consumerism? Shrined by our own current consumerism?

Sam Franklin 10/31/12 - 5:41PM:
what about consumer choice

Sam Franklin 10/31/12 - 5:41PM:
doesnt the consumer decided what is correct inthe market doesnt the consumer decide who gets given wat jobs these are corporations they are looking for botton line

John Lugg 10/31/12 - 5:43PM:
But this, this? This cannot be #menswear’s true face? #menswear can’t just be a bunch of gentlemen bloggers (gentlemen farmers? basically the same thing socioeconomically -- not that the fact means anything about anyone in particular; just a curious observation about how money moves within generations) talking about clothing and their personal taste. We cannot just be a projection of A/W 2013. I concur that the bottom line will ultimately decide what gets sold. But aren’t things that are designed well supposed to be what is in the market? We haven’t reached a designed apex.

Sam Franklin 10/31/12 - 5:43PM:
things in the market arent designed well

Sam Franklin 10/31/12 - 5:43PM:
?

Sam Franklin 10/31/12 - 5:43PM:
so then menswear has an end and an end to the dualism of good and bad

John Lugg 10/31/12 - 5:44PM:
?

Sam Franklin 10/31/12 - 5:44PM:
what you just said meant that there must be an end. society as we currently know it has generally rejected this notion. you expect all clothing to reach an apex at the end. things will not democratize and then synthesize. they appear to just be pluralizing. 

Sam Franklin 10/31/12 - 5:44PM:
you expect progression to always be occurring. whats wrong with the laurels? men are spending a bit more on clothing and hopefully they’re buying a couple fewer pieces. things are actually progressing. is kohl’s a #menswear staple? theyre just not progressing as quickly as would satisfy the internet. plus menswear doesnt change you big dumbdumb.

Sam Franklin 10/31/12 - 5:44PM:
you expect every collection to be good. this is nonsense. for clothing to be good you need a comparative bad. even if everyone bought quality clothing, some clothing would be better than others. is a&f even really bad? its bad compared to our previous standards, but is it bad in a vaccuum? no. because its the only clothing.

Sam Franklin 10/31/12 - 5:44PM:
ends are imaginary. duality is necessary.

John Lugg 10/31/12 - 5:46PM:
wen did you lurn how to spell?

Sam Franklin 10/31/12 - 5:46PM:
one night you ate alphabet soup, drank too much, expelled the soup, and i ate it.

John Lugg 10/31/12 - 5:47PM:
i gess that makes cents

Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Orvis #catalogwear F/W 2012

Discussing changes in what catalogs offer is like talking about how a field of soybeans over there is different than a field of soybeans over there. For those of you who don't leave your house, that means that there is little to differentiate the offerings. Discussing Orvis stuff has been a bit of a regular thing over here so I figure that I'll just keep plugging away. If I start repeating myself, sit tight and wait a few weeks for my next post.

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Montana Morning Long-Sleeve Polo Shirt

Orvis loves it's hybrids as much as a faddier tech brand. Complaining about stuff like this is to veer into JPress anal traddy territory. I'm too refridgerated for that. For the trads, that means that I'm mad chill.

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Painted Desert Jacquard Shirt

It's very college professor hippy vibe. Y'know, the guy or gal with the doctorate and the doobies. They're probably a pottery or anthropology professor.

You can buy this from most thrift stores. That way you have cash for doobies.

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Barbour Alfalfa Stripe Shirt

Brands are big on putting their fingers into heritage/Italian/cowboy/your hot cousin/minimalist trends. This is Barbour's cowboy. I get the point, because make hay while you can, right? On the other hand, this is a cowboy shirt.

I had a joke about Carl Switzer and his lost dog but it was tasteless. That's mostly just a sad case.

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Light-Heavyweight Sailing Rugby

Fell into the Gap they rockin' the hood
Seen peace in the streets when I stopped in the hood
We gon keep it alive like hip-hop in the hood
It's good when love don't stop in the hood
It's a celebration like Dave Shampiple (note: Corruption of Chappelle? I haven't a clue. This Common guy makes no sense)
Hugs to the fam, kisses under the missle
Toe when I flow to the power that rap as
People giving me love while seeing The Gap ads
Gifted like Christmas so I love to rap
We gon give it to the world, peace, love and Gap
Give it to the world, peace, love and Gap
We gon give it to the world, peace, love and Gap

The joke is that this thing is very Gap. If you don't get it now, I'm not sure if you can be helped.

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Ikat Long-Sleeved Western Shirt

"Yea, so we got the grant money and we're going to start work on that Anagama kiln this summer and it'll be done, I don't know, like 2015? Yea, well I've been a pottery professor for 13 years here now so I would've expected them to start funding the program..."

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Diamond-Cable Crewneck Sweater

When catalog companies pushed their wares west of Deerfield, this is what occurred. It could be bad. Who am I to say?

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Navajo-Pattern Shawl-Collar Cardigan

Orvis drops a bit of Lloyd on all of us every year. I think it helps immortalize one of the greatest movies ever. Thanks Orvis. Thanks for keeping this tradition alive.

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Newcastle Wool Pants

Can we all agree that leather pockets are cool?

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CFO Donegal Wool Cargo Pants

Orvis might not be reading menswear blogs but they are reading market sales. These pants have pockets so you can sneak snacks into the movie theater.

Orvis pants are standard. We'll move on from here.

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Bison Leather Zip Boot

A little rock 'n roll and alotta sleazy. If you buy these shoes you might have to sign a contract that ensures that you never wash your hair ever again.

My mom told me not to associate with guys like you.

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UGG Leather Slip-On

"Hey, I'm endorsing UGG now because not everything they do is bad and hey these shoes are alright and they aren't that dumb looking and style is subjective and so like UGG makes alright shoes now..."

No. UGG still sucks. Stop pretending.

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Adventure Twill Sport Coat

It's twill and polyester so it's probably bad. And it comes in OTR S, M, L sizing so it's definitely bad. However, it's a great idea in theory. Bang-around sport coats have been popping up most places and a make of greater quality might make this recommendable.

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Suede-Trimmed Snap Fleece

Herringbone print fleece? I pledge allegiance to the frat...

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Quilted Shirt Jacket

Someone explain to me how #catalogwear is different than #menswear? Is there a difference? I'd say that #catalogwear is less dough but, given this price tag, I'm not so sure.

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Top Gun Navy G-1 Jacket

I know some people who would wear this.

That's not a good thing.

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Navajo Lined Field Coat

For those who love their Lloyd but not that much.



So there you have it. That's Orvis F/W 2012 or at least the stuff worth mentioning. Not much changes from year to year as everything remains a bit South Dakota State professor gear. Cowboy has been away for awhile now, hasn't it?


They restocked their socks. I suppose I should've mentioned that earlier.